twofunkyhearts

Hiked almost 40k today. Wanted to stop sooner but the landscape is so exposed, uneven and boggy at the momet that it want possible to set up camp before or after Petty Harbour, so ended up going 10 farther than planned. Happy to be going to bed in my tent now.

Met a group of 8 Newwfies tonight. Amazing that they go camping and paddling together regularly. What a cool bunch of people! They included me in the their capfire and even fed me moose sauce spaghetti! It’s hit me on this trip what people mean when they say that Canadians really are nice You hear it on the road, but I so rarely encounter other Canadians and have never really been a traveler in my own country.

The ECT has been kind to me since St. Johns and Mother Nature has been very generous with a beautiful sushiney day today. I think I go a bit of a tan. Cape Spear south for 10 km was some of the most intense wind I’ve ever experienced. It literally tipped me over a few times. Kind of lonely though, was caught by some day trippers belting out Joel Plaskett tunes during a rest stop. It made for the briefest of awkward moments, until I realized that I was wearing green pants, a blue shirt, red hat and hadn’t had a shower for a few days and that I had bigger things to be self conscious about.

I love this time of the evening when camping.. my bed is made (despite having the tent fixed I’m opting for bivy under the starts – or cloud cover as is true tonight ps: a major mistake I found when the rain soakinng through my sleeping bag finally forced me to set up my tent in the dark). Dinner is finished and food is hung in a tree. I’m writing and sipping tea that’s gone cold too quickly, listening to the waves hit the rocks. Monster mosquitoes are flying aroud despite the chill and I can only imagine what it must be like as it warms up here. My campsite is cute, bare bones, on the south side of a barrier separating a freshwater bay from the ocean. Theres a breeze with a chilli in it which makes me look forward to the warmth of my sleeping bag.

My creative mind has been activing today, coming up with plans and business ideas, and processing a lot of past events and people. It feels like I’m purging so much of what has been unhealthy for me in the past: people, places, relationships, environments. Perhaps making space for something new.

Disjointed Notes from the Trail:

It’s my first night on the ECT and I’m not far from puch Cove camping in a very.. uneven spot behind a sign on the trail indicating a little-known place called Hollow Cove. The whole place, while beautiful, is cold. Icebergs breaking on the bay below, a lonely foghorn in the distance and an insidious chill that haunts. In a moment of indulgence I broke open a packet of hot chocolate I snuck out of the United Airways lounge in DC. I have 4 and thought they’d last a while but maybe not.
Sleepingi n my bivy for the first time tonight. I had a 6th sense the last while this may happen… one of those things you kind of knew would happen but in no way could you change the course of events. Setting up my tent one of the poles broke, right at the arch. Its the first time it’s ever happened to me, and it’s a crappy, cold place for it to occur. I’ve been thinking how heavy and how muc space my tent takes up and now on the first night it’s unusable. Bummer. Hopefully my sleeping bag will keep me warm. Might go down to 0 degrees toight.

The trail is lovely so far and would probablty be even lovelier if I could see more of it. The taxi driver from St. John’s wouldn’t drvie me from Pouch Cove to the trail head on Biscan Cove because the road was gravel. (I didnt think it seemed soo obad but whatever… whasn’t worth the extra $30 he was charging for the 4km and time breathing in his cologn anyways. I hiked about 6km to Cape St. Fracis then back, picked up my bag I’d hid inn the bush, walked through  Pouch Cove and finally found the best site I could. My knee is causing me some serious grief from the ultra injury in March. I hoped it would have healded by nnow, ad definitely thought it would be fine waking. Tomorrow will be pain, I can tell already. Regardless, I think we should stage an ultra here.

Another Disjointed Note From the Trail

Dear Joel (Plaskett),

You got me again. Today it was with “Gone, Gone, Gone”.

Good job,

Daryl

More Disjointed Notes from the Trail:

Funny day today – and a great day. Again, gorgeous weather that I am sure is giving me some good/bad tanlines.

I walked about 32km today including a 3km detour on the wrong path in LaMance park. I was panning on continuing to put a few more miles in, but fell in the Roaring Cove River while trying to cross it. Fortunately there’s a campsite (where I’m scribbling away at now), just up from the river. The fall might be a blessing in disguise as I’ve learned how hard it can be to pitch a tent on this path of mine.

The flies and gnats here are quite annoying – Im wearing a full-face net I bought at MEC years ago that I’ve never felt so inclined nor so silly to actually use.

Today may have been the highlight of the patch so far, hiking through Mobile Tors Cover, and the 3 St. Michael’s towns (Burnt Cove, St. Michael’s & Bauline East – my favourite stretch I think). Tors Cove “The Cribbies” felt like a set from Little House on the Prairie… except for the ocean. I could see spending time in that place – truly amazing country. The path from Tors Cove to the others is strange, you’re really just walking on old roads he whole time, often through the bush, but it’s deceiving because you don’t really know where you are as all the communities blend into each other.

Anyways as I was cresting the hill to Burnt Cove I kept thinking of how amazing it would be to find an all-day diner serving  breakfast. Its een so hard to find a place to charge my iPod, or get a cooked meal  (I’m so hungry all the time!). Everything is closed till the tourist season starts in a month. Well, the Universe provided! I got a sniff and a view of the sign  “Ocean View Bakery!” I almost thought I was delirious. Inside was a lovely Newfoundland woman named Carmel (for real, she’s a baker and  that’s her name). I spent $17 on baked goods and coffee – I bought everything she had on her shelves and took it to her back porch where I proceeded to eat 4 peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies, 2 date squares and 2 chocolate squares. Heaven! Sitting there in the perfect sunlight out of the wind, with a beautiful ocean view in front of me. Slightly better than the cubicle view overlooking Brussels highway overpasses I had at this time last year.

2 coffees later and all that sugar I went back inside to say goodbye to Carmell and she hd a Newfoundland Tutan waiting for me – deep fried bread dough served with molasses. Despite whatever judgement I might get from my nutrition community, I have to say that my calorie-deficient body was grateful for it all, and every cell sucked up every last sugar granule to be had in Carmel’s kitchen. Carmel had pictures of her grandkids living in Alberta posted on the wall. We discussed how hard it is to live way from family while I licked my fingers.

My spill into Roaring Cove River made me realize that the water was quite warm! I’ve had my first little bath in days. It feels so good to be clean, and some of my clothes even got a rinse. I feel brand new now! Thankfully there’s no one else on the trail it seems, if there were each one of them would hae seem me in my birthday suit standing in the middle of trail in shin-high river water. Not a good sight these days.
Lots of moose sign and coyote too. Carmell thought I was brave/crazy to be out here alone, saying she would never choose to come out here alone. That’s okay for me since it means she’ll have Tutan waiting for me when I come back.

My day has turned around! I’ve gone from a Grumpy Trail Gus to a happy camper. I’ve had yet another beautiful, sunny and warm day and came across just the right number of people to have a chat with. One nice old fella, William Vic from Bay Bulls even picked me up on the from the ECT and dropped me t the grocery store, saving e a few extra kilometers of pavement pounding through town to the next trailhead. I also met the nicest couple here on the beach from St. John’s. She was so interested in the idea of me camping and wanted to know what I eat and how to do it. Anther example of wonderful Newfoundlanders.

The scenery is of course beautiful. I can’t help but say it everyday. It’s different from north of St. John’s with smaller cliffs, no icebergs and som open(and wet!) marshes.

I’m content again, no urge to return to the city as before. im happy and have decided to play the trail by ear, and just see how long I want to keep at it. This is a whole new strategy, different than I’ve ever approached anything in my life before. Releasing a do-or-die attitude is surprisingly liberating. Maybe I’ll feel differently when it rains and gets cold again. The difference between now and a week ago when I was sleeping out in the cold exposed rain is night and day. This sun is wonderful!

Feeling strong and empowered tonight, very aware of the freedoms I’m exercising in doing this little hike and making some travels… freedoms no woman in history – and most in present day – ever have had the chance to experience. Truly, I am so unbelievably lucky that this is my life, that I have my amazing community and that this is my country. No words.

Disjointed Notes from the Trail

Joel,

You’ve made my trip so much better. I know I’m in the wrong province, but your music goes with the journey even more than the place I think.

Had a long stretch of pavement today to get back on the trail. I don’t really believe in listening to audio while in the bush, but I figured that since I was on the side of a secondary highway it wasn’t really wilderness.

Perfect tune for my mindset. This and the theme song from “Littlest Hobo”

I go where I go on my own two feet,

Daryl

The day and evening are beautiful. Sunny, windy, lovely. onlty hike 7 or 8km today, stopped to visit the Spout, a famous Newfoundland sea geyser than comes from a chanel uder the rocks and water explodes out of it. Pretty neat. Double rainbows in the mist. That Youtube guy would have loved it. Predictable double rainbows.

Feeling a bit isolated today and a good part of me wants to go back to St. John’s tomorrow from Bay Bulls. The trail is beautiful and I do love being out here, yet I feel like I want to get of of it. I don’t know why, I just no longer have interest in doing the whole 265++kms (as evidenced by a 7k hike today!). We’ll see what tomorrow morning brings.